Quick answer
Set up anti-skate only after the turntable is level, the cartridge is aligned, and the tracking force is correct. As a starting point, set the anti-skate control to the same number as the tracking force in grams, unless your turntable manual gives a different instruction.
Then fine-tune by listening to a clean, familiar record or using a suitable test record. Make very small changes, and stop when both channels track cleanly, the stereo image is stable, and the stylus does not appear to pull strongly inwards or outwards as it plays.
In this guide
- What anti-skate does and why the tonearm naturally pulls towards the centre of the record
- Why tracking force must be set before anti-skate
- How to set anti-skate on a dial, slider or hanging-weight system
- How to check your setting using music, a test record and careful observation
- What right-channel or left-channel distortion can suggest
- Why blank-record methods can mislead you
- When anti-skate cannot fix the real problem
Watch the article video
1. What anti-skate is actually correcting
When a record plays, the spinning groove pulls the stylus along. Because a pivoted tonearm sits at an angle across the record, that pull creates a sideways force that tends to drag the arm towards the centre.
Anti-skate, sometimes called bias, applies a small force in the opposite direction. Its job is to help the stylus sit more evenly between the two groove walls, rather than pressing harder on one side.
This matters because stereo records store the left and right channels on the two angled walls of the groove. If the stylus pressure is uneven, one channel may distort before the other, inner-groove tracking can suffer, and stylus and record wear may become less even.
Anti-skate is not a sound-quality tone control. It is a tracking adjustment, and it works best when the rest of the tonearm setup is already correct.
2. Check whether your turntable has adjustable anti-skate
Not every record player gives you an anti-skate control. Some fully automatic, portable or entry-level models use a fixed setting chosen by the manufacturer, while others have a dial, small slider, spring mechanism or hanging weight.
Look near the tonearm base for a control marked anti-skate, bias, skating, or a numbered dial next to the arm pivot. A hanging-weight system usually has a small weight on a thread and a notched rod or loop arrangement.
If your turntable has no visible control, do not try to force an adjustment. Check the manual, as the mechanism may be internal or non-adjustable.
If it is fixed and the turntable is otherwise working correctly, focus on the settings you can control: level position, stylus condition, tracking force if adjustable, and clean records. Anti-skate is only one part of the setup.
3. Prepare the turntable before making any adjustment
Anti-skate should be adjusted carefully because you are working close to the stylus. A careless movement can bend the cantilever, which is the tiny arm that holds the stylus tip.
Before you begin:
- Place the turntable on a stable, level surface.
- Remove dust from the record and stylus.
- Use the cueing lever rather than dropping the arm by hand.
- Keep the volume low while testing.
- Make sure the turntable cannot be knocked while the stylus is on a record.
Check that the platter is level from left to right and front to back. A turntable that slopes even slightly can make the arm drift and will make anti-skate adjustment less reliable.
If the turntable has adjustable feet, level it there first. If it does not, correct the furniture or support underneath rather than propping one corner of the deck with something unstable.
4. Set tracking force first
Tracking force is the downward pressure of the stylus in the groove. Anti-skate works in relation to this force, so you must set tracking force before setting anti-skate.
If your arm has a counterweight and a tracking-force scale, follow the tonearm or cartridge instructions. The usual process is:
- Set anti-skate to zero before balancing the arm, unless your manual says otherwise.
- With the stylus guard removed, carefully balance the tonearm so it floats level.
- Set the tracking-force dial to zero without moving the counterweight itself, if your arm uses this type of scale.
- Turn the counterweight to the cartridge maker’s recommended tracking force.
- Confirm the result with a digital stylus force gauge if you have one.
A gauge is useful because printed counterweight scales can be approximate, especially on older decks or arms that have been moved. You do not need an expensive laboratory tool, but you do need a measurement you can trust.
The correct tracking force is normally a range, not a single magic number. If a cartridge maker gives a range, many users start around the middle, then adjust within the safe range if tracking problems remain.
Do not lower tracking force below the recommended range in an attempt to reduce record wear. Too little force can make the stylus mistrack and chatter in the groove, which can be more harmful than tracking correctly at the recommended force.
5. Set the initial anti-skate value
Once tracking force is correct, set anti-skate to a sensible starting point. On many tonearms with a numbered dial, the starting point is the same number as the tracking force in grams.
For example, if tracking force is set to 2 grams, the anti-skate dial would commonly start at 2. This is a starting value, not a guarantee of perfection.
If your turntable uses a hanging weight, do not guess from a dial-based guide. Use the turntable manual’s notch or thread position for your tracking force, because each design applies force differently.
If your turntable uses a slider rather than a dial, again start with the maker’s matching position where available. If the markings are broad rather than exact, begin at the position closest to your tracking force.
After setting the control, cue the arm down onto the lead-in groove of a record and watch from the front and slightly above. The arm should settle into the groove without a sudden jump inwards or an obvious pull outwards.
A small inward movement as the groove catches the stylus is normal. A strong sideways snap suggests something else may be wrong, such as a very sloping deck, incorrect tracking force, or a damaged stylus.
6. Check with a clean, familiar record
The most useful first listening test is not a rare pressing or a worn favourite. Choose a clean record you know well, preferably one with vocals, cymbals, piano or strings, because these reveal mistracking clearly.
Listen first at a normal volume, then slightly lower. Very loud playback can make it harder to tell whether you are hearing cartridge mistracking, speaker strain, room reflections or record damage.
Play a passage near the middle of the record, then one closer to the inner grooves. Inner grooves are more demanding because the groove travels past the stylus more slowly near the centre, so alignment and tracking errors become more obvious.
You are listening for:
- Vocals that stay centred rather than pulling left or right.
- Sibilants such as “s” and “sh” sounds that are clean rather than spitty.
- Cymbals that sound crisp rather than fuzzy or tearing.
- Similar distortion levels in both channels, if any distortion is present.
- Stable tracking without the stylus visibly leaning hard to one side.
If the right channel distorts first, anti-skate may be too low. If the left channel distorts first, anti-skate may be too high. Treat this as a clue, not a final diagnosis, because cartridge alignment, record wear and channel balance can also affect what you hear.
Make one small change at a time. On a dial, a movement of about a tenth to a quarter of a mark is usually enough for a listening check; on a hanging-weight system, move only one notch or recommended position at a time.
7. Use a test record if you have one
A test record can make anti-skate adjustment more systematic, but it can also encourage over-adjustment if used without judgement. Use it as a tool, not as a contest.
Many test records include progressively harder tracking bands. These play tones at increasing levels so you can hear when one channel starts to buzz or break up.
A sensible method is:
- Confirm that tracking force and cartridge alignment are already correct.
- Play a moderate tracking test band, not the most extreme one first.
- Listen through headphones or sit centrally between the speakers.
- Note whether the left or right channel breaks up first.
- Adjust anti-skate slightly and replay the same band.
- Stop when both channels behave similarly on realistic test bands.
Do not chase the most severe torture tracks if doing so forces anti-skate far away from the normal range. Some cartridges will never pass the hardest bands cleanly, and that does not automatically mean your records will play badly.
A test record is most helpful when it confirms what you also hear on music. If the test record suggests a dramatic setting but normal records sound worse, return to the practical music-based setting and re-check the basics.
8. Be careful with blank-groove methods
Some people set anti-skate by placing the stylus on a smooth, blank part of a record and adjusting until the arm stays still. This can be useful as a rough observation, but it is not the same as playing a groove.
A real groove has two walls that grip and guide the stylus. A smooth surface does not create the same friction or geometry, so it can suggest an anti-skate value that is too high or otherwise misleading.
If you use a blank area at all, use it only as a safety check. The arm should not race dramatically across the surface, but you should not assume that a stationary arm on a blank disc equals perfect anti-skate.
Never use an ordinary record label, a scratched run-out area or a compact disc as a precise setup tool. These surfaces can be slippery, uneven or risky for the stylus.
9. Fine-tune in the right order
If you still hear problems after the initial setting, adjust in a controlled order. Random changes make it very difficult to know what helped.
Use this sequence:
- Re-check that the turntable is level.
- Re-check tracking force with a gauge if possible.
- Confirm that the stylus is clean and not visibly damaged.
- Confirm that the cartridge is aligned correctly in the headshell, if your arm allows alignment.
- Return anti-skate to the sensible starting value.
- Play the same test passage again.
- Adjust anti-skate slightly in the likely direction.
- Replay the same passage and compare.
If you make a change and the sound improves in one channel but worsens in the other, you may have moved too far. Back off towards the previous setting.
If nothing changes when you move the anti-skate control, the mechanism may not be working, the cartridge may be mistracking for another reason, or the record may already be damaged. Do not keep increasing the setting indefinitely.
10. Know what anti-skate cannot fix
Anti-skate can help a correctly set up turntable track more evenly, but it cannot repair every playback fault. Many problems that sound like anti-skate are caused elsewhere.
Anti-skate will not fix:
- A worn or dirty stylus.
- A damaged or worn record groove.
- Incorrect cartridge alignment.
- Too much or too little tracking force.
- A tonearm bearing fault.
- A warped or off-centre record.
- Speakers placed unevenly in the room.
- An amplifier, cable or cartridge channel fault.
If distortion is always on the same record in the same place, the record may be worn or cut very hot. If distortion is present on every record, especially new clean ones, the turntable setup deserves a full check.
If one channel is always quieter even when playing digital sources through the same amplifier and speakers, anti-skate is not the cause. Check the wider system before adjusting the tonearm again.
11. Special cases: DJ use, heavy tracking and non-adjustable decks
DJ and scratch use can require different anti-skate choices from normal home listening. Some scratch users reduce or disable anti-skate to keep the stylus behaviour predictable during back-cueing, but that is a specialist use and not the best setting for ordinary record playback.
If you play records for listening rather than scratching, stay within the cartridge maker’s tracking-force range and use anti-skate in the normal way. Heavy tracking force does not remove the need for correct bias, although some arms and cartridges are less sensitive than others.
On non-adjustable automatic or portable record players, you may not be able to set anti-skate separately. In that case, do not dismantle the arm unless you are experienced and have service information.
For fixed setups, your practical checks are simpler: keep the player level, use the correct stylus, replace worn styli promptly, and avoid playing valuable records on equipment that cannot track them safely.
12. How to know when the setting is good enough
Perfect anti-skate is difficult because skating force changes across the record and varies with groove loudness, stylus shape and friction. A single setting is always a compromise.
A good real-world setting gives you stable, clean playback across most of the record without obvious one-sided distortion. The stereo image should feel steady, and the stylus should not appear to lean dramatically as it plays.
Stop adjusting when further changes bring no clear improvement. Constantly chasing tiny differences can lead you away from a balanced setup and may increase the risk of stylus damage through repeated handling.
It is worth re-checking anti-skate if you change cartridge, stylus, headshell, tracking force or tonearm height. You should also check it after moving house or relocating the turntable, because levelling and support can change.
At a glance comparison
| Right channel distorts first | Anti-skate may be too low, but first confirm the record, stylus, tracking force and alignment are sound. |
|---|---|
| Left channel distorts first | Anti-skate may be too high, especially if the problem appears after increasing the setting. |
| Distortion on both channels | Often points to tracking force, cartridge alignment, a worn stylus, a difficult record cut or damaged grooves. |
| Arm pulls sharply inward when cued | Check turntable level, tracking force and anti-skate; do not assume the anti-skate dial alone is at fault. |
| Changing anti-skate has no audible effect | The mechanism may be limited or faulty, or the real problem may be elsewhere in the setup or system. |
Frequently asked questions
Should anti-skate always equal tracking force?
Not always. Matching the anti-skate number to the tracking force in grams is a common starting point on many tonearms with a numbered dial, but different mechanisms vary.
Use the manual if it gives a specific method. Then fine-tune by listening or using a test record rather than assuming the printed number is exact.
Can too much anti-skate damage records?
Yes, an excessive setting can make the stylus press unevenly against one groove wall. That can increase wear and may cause mistracking in the opposite channel.
The aim is balance, not the maximum possible setting. If increasing anti-skate makes one channel cleaner but the other worse, reduce it slightly.
Why is distortion worse near the end of a record?
Inner grooves are harder for a cartridge to track because the same amount of musical information is packed into a smaller circumference. Alignment errors, worn styli and poor anti-skate settings often become more obvious there.
If inner-groove distortion is present on many clean records, check cartridge alignment and stylus condition as well as anti-skate.
Do conical and elliptical styli need different anti-skate?
Stylus shape can affect how the tip contacts the groove, so the ideal anti-skate value may vary slightly. However, you should still begin with the turntable or cartridge maker’s guidance.
More advanced stylus shapes can be revealing of small setup errors, so careful alignment and tracking force become even more important.
Can I adjust anti-skate while a record is playing?
On many decks you can make very small changes while a record plays, but do it gently and keep your hand well away from the moving arm and stylus. Sudden movements can make the stylus jump.
If the control is stiff, close to the arm, or uses a hanging weight, stop playback first. Safety matters more than speed.
What if my anti-skate dial has no numbers?
Use the manual if available, as unnumbered controls vary. If you have no manual, start near the middle for typical listening cartridges, then adjust carefully using familiar music.
Do not assume that the middle position is correct for every cartridge. Re-check tracking force and listen for one-sided distortion.
Should anti-skate be set to zero for mono records?
Usually no. A mono record still has groove walls and the stylus still experiences skating force on a pivoted tonearm.
For normal mono playback with a stereo cartridge, keep the anti-skate setting appropriate to your tracking force unless your cartridge or tonearm instructions say otherwise.
How often should I re-check anti-skate?
You do not need to adjust it before every record. Re-check it when you change cartridge, stylus, headshell, tracking force, or move the turntable.
It is also worth checking if you suddenly notice one-channel distortion on several clean records.
Final thoughts
Anti-skate is best treated as a careful finishing adjustment, not the first control to reach for. Level the turntable, set tracking force accurately, confirm cartridge alignment, then set anti-skate to the recommended starting point and fine-tune in small steps.
A good setting should give clean, balanced tracking without obvious one-sided distortion or strong sideways pull. If anti-skate changes do not solve the problem, investigate stylus wear, record condition, cartridge alignment and tonearm setup next.
For your next step, read a guide to setting tracking force or aligning a cartridge, because those two adjustments have the biggest effect on whether anti-skate can do its job properly.
